APPAREL-INDUSTRY    (CUTTING DEPT)

      Hello Everyone!!!!  I hope all are doing well . Today we will learn about workflow about cutting dept.  This is the first action taking process in journey of making garment . We will see its complete workprocess, machinery used in dept , reports etc. So lets start ……

In most circumstances (except one-piece knitted garments), garments are assembled from several components. This is essential to establish profile/ shape to the garments, to overcome the constraints of fabric width. The cutting is the process of reproduction of shape of pattern pieces in the fabric during the production of garments. The cut fabric panels are then joined using a series of stitches and seams to produce three-dimensional garments.

Working Process of Cutting Department in Apparel Industry: 
The main purpose of cutting section involves cutting of garment panels precisely, consistent with the pattern shape and size as well as economically and in a necessary volume to keep the sewing department supplied with work. The process flow in the cutting department is given below. 

Process flow chart in cutting section in garment industry:

Marker planning

↓ 
Fabric spreading 
↓ 
Placing marker paper on the lay 
↓ 
100% inspection of parts and replacement of parts if needed 
↓ 
Numbering 
↓ 
Fabric cutting 
↓ 
Sorting and bundling 
↓ 
Input to sewing department

The four main operations or processes involved in the cutting section in apparel industry are: 

·              Marker planning

·              Fabric spreading

·              Fabric cutting

·              Preparation for the assembling process

Lay planning and marker making processes: 
When all the necessary data about the textile materials delivered to the cutting room have been obtained, lay planning and marker making processes may be further work processes in the cutting room. Several factors that influence productivity and work efficiency in the cutting room are taken into account in performing the lay planning process. The most important of these are: 

·              The number of articles ordered for each size of a style;

·              The optimum use of the fabric to minimise any fabric wastage;

·              The technological limits of the spreading and cutting processes;

·              The optimum use of time and labour.

To organize an efficient work process in a cutting room, two or more garment sizes are typically combined in every marker, the number of fabric plies (or layers) in every spread and the number of spreads needed for the markers required are determined.

You may also like: Basic Concept of Marker and Marker Making in Garment Industry
 
In accordance with the customer’s specification, markers for all ordered pieces, sizes and quantities required are created. Taking into account fabric quality, type of pattern (e.g. striped, check etc.) and style, the pattern pieces are placed in the marker in the right position and as close to each other as possible to obtain the most efficient use of the fabric. Nowadays marker making is often automated. Special nesting software allows creation of a marker on a computer screen and makes the work process quicker and easier by allowing the user to reconfigure the arrangement of pattern pieces to get the best arrangement of the marker. Markers can be also created automatically using the right software.

Fabric Spreading Process:
Spreading is a process during which fabric is cut in pieces of certain length and the pieces placed one above another in many plies. The length of the cut fabric ply is determined by the shape, size and number of the components to be cut from it. Spreading also involves placing layers (or plies) of fabric on top of one another. The number of plies in a spread is dependent on the number of articles required and the technical limits of the fabric spreading and cutting processes. Spreading process may be either manual or automated. 

Fabric Cutting Process: 
Cutting is the process of separating a spread into garment components as a replica of pattern pieces on a marker. It also involves transferring marks and notches from the marker to garment components to facilitate sewing. The cutting process is frequently done in two stages: rough cutting and the final accurate cutting.

Objectives of cutting: 
The main purpose of cutting is to separate fabric plies as replicas of the patterns in the marker plan. In attaining this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled.

Accuracy of cut: 
The garment components have to be cut accurately and precisely as per the shape of the pattern to facilitate assembling process and for better fitting of garments. The effortlessness in achieving this accuracy is based on the cutting method engaged and on the marker.

Clean edges: 
The fabric edges after cutting should not show fraying or snagging. These defects are due to an imperfectly sharpened knife, which could result in heat generation due to friction with fabric which leads to fabric damage. The heat generation during cutting with knives could be reduced by means of using sharpened knife blades, serrated or wavy edge knife, utilisation of anti-fusion paper between fabric, spraying of lubricant over the blades and reducing the lay height and blade.

Support of the lay: 
The cutting method should provide the support for the fabric in addition to allow the blade to pierce the lowest ply of a spread and separate all the plies.

Consistent cutting: 
Based on the method of cutting employed, the lay height will vary. To get a consistent quality of cutting, the lay height should be as low as possible without affecting the production planning and quality of cutting.

Preparation for Cutting: 
After the laying process has been completed, the spreader has to recount the numbers of plies as in the cutting ticket. Then the following additional steps have to done prior to cutting.

Moving the spreading machine aside: 
The spreading operator will place the spreading machine aside and remove catchers if they were used. The spreading machine must be placed back far enough from the lay to permit the cutter to work.

Facilitating shrinkage of the lay: 
If the lay is knitted fabric, then the lay should be cut into sections and left on the spreading table overnight to relax. These sections are cut at natural splice sections in the lay. The cutter would cut between the components through the fabric width to release the tension in the plies nearby the table.

Rechecking the marker: 
After the spreading process is completed, the marker is kept on top of the spread. The beginning line in the marker is aligned at the starting point of the spread. The spreader has to ensure that the length and width of the spread matches with the length and width of the marker.

Fastening the marker to the spread: 
The methods for fastening the marker to the lay of fabric are given below. 

·              Cloth weights – Cloth weights made of metal about 2–10 lb can be used to hold the marker down on the lay.

·              Lay tacks (sharp staples) – In this method a lay tacker, similar to a stapler, is utilised to hold the marker by pressing them with the top layer of fabric to keep the marker in place and stabilise the spread.

·              Straight T-pins – Straight T-pins of 1 ½″ to 3″ long are used on softer woven fabrics such as wools and wool blends, and terry cloth.

·              Light spray adhesive – In this method, the bottom portion of the marker is covered with a rubber type adhesive to hold the marker to the top layer of the fabric and it can be easily separated after cutting.

Methods of Fabric Cutting: 
Generally there are two types of fabric cutting techniques; they are portable cutting and stationary cutting. With the advancement in technology there have been improvements in fabric techniques also like Automated, Numerically Controlled cutting systems, which has Automatic blade cutting, Laser cutting, Water jet cutting, Die cutting etc. I have published a comprehensive article on methods of fabric cutting.


 
Preparation of Cut Work for Sewing Room: 
The essential preparatory activities for sewing are bundling, shade separation, indicating the face side of the fabrics and work ticketing.

Bundling: 
Most of the sewing rooms use the bundling system, where small batches of garments move from one workstation to another in a controlled manner. In order to prepare the cut work, it is essential for operators to be able to identify each pile. This is the function of the marker, if used, as the style number, the size and the part identification will be part of the plot. If markers are not used, a top-ply labelling system is required. 

Shade separation: 
Shade variation in fabric roll is common. However, within the batch of cut components, there are likely to be shade differences. It can be ensured in cutting sections by inserting tissue paper between every piece. With quality outerwear garments, it is quite common to give every garment piece a pressure-sensitive adhesive ticket with a ply number known as soabaring.

Indication of the face side of fabrics: 
Few fabrics have a noticeable difference between the face and back, which does not pose any problem for machinists to identify it. However, the fabrics that are identical on both sides pose a problem. The need for identification of face side becomes crucial when there is a close resemblance between the face and the back side of the fabric. Right side identification may use soabar tickets, whereby the ply number is always positioned on the fabric face.

Work ticketing: 
Whenever the bundling system is used, it should be accompanied by work tickets or bundle tickets. It gives fundamental information about the work such as the style number, the size of the garment, the number of garments in the bundle and the date issued. Work tickets are usually created on site once the outcome of spreading/cutting is known.

                                                            THE END